Race Tips: The Book

 Here is a book of contributions by race veterans. As with any information, you will need to decide for yourself whether to implement any or all of the suggestions here. Be alerted that, as the advice comes from different years and boats, it may not meet the current race rules for your vessel!

Some of these materials came from prior Pac Cup Seminars. We hope you will attend these as they come available

General, and generally good, advice collections

Hard to organize, but good to read.

Outfitting Tips from Surprise

Steve and Sue Chamberlin were gracious enought to have their yacht Surprise available at the 2006 "Explore the Possibilities" Seminar held April 16, 2005 at the Strictly Sail Pacific Expo. Below is a collection of photos and tips provided by Steve and Sue on various aspects of outfitting your yacht for a long passage. Steve can be reached by email at Pacific Cup Inspections Chair. The images are larger than they are deing dislpayed. You can right click and save the image to your computer to view a bigger photo.

 

Foul Weather Gear Storage:

A simple piece of wood temporarily installed at the forward end of the main salon provides a means of hanging gear which will otherwise be strewn about the boat. Hooks or eyes keep everything from sliding to the leeward side; wire ties are used to secure the rail to the overhead handrails. Use plastic hangers.

Spinnaker net:

How could something so hard to see be so important? Voted the best piece of gear on the boat in 2004; prevents spinnaker wraps and makes douses very simple. Used with the double-pole rig you can gybe without lowering the net.

Jacklines and baboon butt:

In addition to the jacklines that run fore and aft it is nice to have one for the cockpit crew on the centerline from the companionway to the helm.

Cushions may seem like a luxury, but it is astounding how hard a fiberglass deck can become after 4-5 days. Inexpensive kneeling cushions from your local hardware store, or stadium cushions work well and can serve as markers to throw overboard in a crew overboard situation.

Double Spinnaker Pole Rig:

Using separate poles for port/starboard is an old trick that makes gybing short-handed easy for boats with dip-pole systems. The new pole is hoisted into position with the topping lift and afterguy, the boat is gybed, and the old pole is lowered to the deck/bow with its topping lift and afterguy. Add a second pole car to the mast, separated by at least 12" to minimize interference when both poles are at the bow (check this!). Split foreguys port and starboard; use a spare halyard as the second topping lift. Weren't you going to take a spare pole anyway?

Lifeline Gates:

There are many stories of crew overboard when the life line gate opens. Tape, wire-tie or otherwise secure these so there is no chance of release. Plastic wire ties are also good for securing main halyard shackles and knots on sheets or throw ropes.

Life raft Storage:

Finding a convenient place for the life raft is often a challenge. The photos above show a lazerette lazarette locker that has been adapted by installing a "hammock" for the life raft to permit its storage at the top of the locker as required by the regulations. Make sure the locker is watertight if using a valice-style life raft.

Flashlights:

When the call comes for "all hands on deck" in the middle of the night, you’ll want to be able to find a flashlight without a search. These are stored in pockets behind the companionway and easy to grab on the way out.

Galley Belt:

Not required, easy to overlook or forget, hard to live without. Want to eat when the going is rough? Make sure your chef is comfortable and safe. Should be positioned to permit reaching the entire galley, but not directly in front of the stove. Golf towel is a great way to keep this from getting lost.

Food and other storage:

These hardware store baskets slide in place in teak strips that have been routed out to accept the edge of the basket. They work well for keeping your stores from rotting or getting crushed. Fit easily into the overhead in a quarterberth.

Duffel bag storage/lee cloths/personal storage areas:

Lee cloths need to start at the far edge of the mattress so that they lift and incline the mattress, not just form a wall. Control lines need to be adjustable by crew in the berth; a small block, ¼" line, snap hook, and a "tent line" adjuster work well. Made these adjusters from ½" PVC pipe.

Everyone keeps their clothing in their duffel bag, but where do the duffel bags live? We store them on the leeward berth, held in place by the lee cloth.

Personal gear storage: The cubby-holes behind the berths are labeled with blue-tape with crew names to designate personal storage. Sea boots, hats, harnesses, tethers and the like live here. Anything left on the cabin sole is carefully inserted into the next spinnaker pack to be seen for the last time when the spinnaker is hoisted.

Lists:

Make sure everyone in the crew is on the same page. Menu lists, daily check list, and food storage list is a great way to keep everyone focused and ???

Storage pockets:

This neat little piece lives where a seat-back cushion would normally be. Tape labels designate crew names for storage of sunglasses, sun-screen, water bottles, coffee cups, and the like.

Pipe berth:

After five Pacific crossings there is near unanimous agreement that the pipe berth is the preferred accommodation, particularly in the rough going. They look more difficult to fabricate than they are; worth the effort.

Thoughtful Hints by Richard Leevey

At this point in your race planning you have studied all the technical aspects and requirements for sailing in the Pacific Cup Race. Here are a few things to consider that might help to make the trip more pleasurable for all, and might even make you faster in the long run.

For many, this is just another race to Hawaii, but for others it is the challenge of a lifetime. It does not take much energy on your part to contribute to a mood of caring, fun and respect for others. With a little advance thought and planning, you can help to make it the best time people have ever had. Challenge yourself to be there 100% for everyone’s benefit.

As you firm up your planning for the race, make sure to get input from the crew on any dietary restrictions or food allergies. Find out what treats they like to eat and get plenty of them. Things like fruit cups and pudding packs will be in big demand once everyone gets their sea legs. Avoid complex meals, your meals planned should be ones that everyone can easily cook and do not leave the galley a total mess.

As you create a plan for storing provisions, make a list of where everything is stored and post in it plain view. Attaching a 3x5 card on the outside of a storage area with the contents listed will save a lot of time digging for a specific item. Plan at least 4 or 5 back up meals, like heat-and-eat stew, in the event of extreme conditions when no one wants to be a galley slave.

Make sure everyone has a plan for how they will deal with seasickness. Even with the best medication, plan on half the crew being at only 50% for the first 3 days out. For the first 36 hours have plenty on pre-made sandwiches, saltines and cup of noodles type products to get them through it. Dehydration plays a big role at this point in the trip. I have found that Gator Aid or other balanced sports drinks really help to keep hydrated and keep strength up. Avoid anything with high acid content like citrus juices and coffee. If you are a coffee addict, break the habit well before you depart: you never know when you might get in time for a catnap and if you’re amped out on caffeine you won’t slip off to sleep easily.

If you have never slept with the aid of earplugs, go out and buy several types and test them out well in advance so you will have a good working pair for the trip. Believe me, you won’t find it easy to sleep without them. Make sure when purchasing personal items for the trip to avoid any heavily-scented products like baby wipes, deodorant and the like. The crew will thank you for this.

Some of the crew will take to sea life like a duck to water, while others will have a real struggle with it. If someone is having a tough time and starts to get run down with the routine, have flexibility with the watch system and let them skip a watch and get 8 to 10 hours straight sleep. This will make a new person out of them and you will all benefit.

When it comes to the chores no one really likes to do, like cooking or cleaning the head, don’t let the “nice person” always get stuck doing it. “You” be the person that that jumps in and gives them a break. When you’re going off watch in the middle of the night, go down 10 min before the change and heat some water for hot cider or tea for the new watch coming on. They will love the thought and it might happen for you too. Before it gets dark make sure to restock the galley with easy to grab and eat snacks.

When standing the night watches, try to keep the chatter on deck down, as the sounds carry below much louder at night. Try to be as tidy as possible with your personal gear and bunk area. Having to climb over mounds of boots and foulies to get to your bunk is no fun. Keep your personal hygiene up. The boat is too a small space to let odors go unchecked.

Bring along several disposable cameras and have them ready to grab for those Kodak moments, these pictures will help you to keep your memories alive for a lifetime. Every evening before it gets dark police the boat to make sure everything is in its proper safe place. Getting hit in the head by a flying ghetto blaster at 3 A.M. is no fun and very dangerous.

Consider a staggered watch system so that the new watch is not caught off guard by the current conditions (pattern of squalls and the like). This is also nice in that you get to share time with other crewmembers.

Plan for a grand half way party. This is where you pull out the stops with your meal plan. Bring on the big guns! Bring something special to share with everyone. You could have everyone bring a funny wrapped gift, and do a gift exchange after dinner. Onboard Ta Mana we even bring special party outfits like MardiGras, the more outlandish the better. This is truly the time to celebrate, for now you are further from any point of land then in any other ocean in the world, and half way to paradise!

If you like fresh fish and don’t have the proper gear for the trip, get it now. Find a real serious fishing outfitter and get a rig using a heavy handline attached to a snubber, which is attached directly to the rail. You will be trolling plugs, poppers and feathers from this line back about the second wave behind the boat (30 to 60 yards). Remember this line must be attended if you want to boat what you hook. You can start fishing about the time you are able to run with a spinnaker. If you are the first to catch a nice Mahi Mahi you will be a hero with the crew at that night’s dinner.

If you are better at something then someone else, like driving, surfing or trimming, now is your time to shine, take them under your wing and share your skill, the both of you will be better for it.

If at any point on the trip something comes up that bothers you, take the skipper aside and express your thoughts, or concerns before it becomes an issue. The two of you can come with a plan to deal with what ever. Sometimes it just helps to air out what you’re feeling. Just don’t bite your lip and keep it bottled up. It can make for a very long trip.

Above all else remember, this is “The Fun Race to Hawaii”. Be safe, have a blast and I will see you in Kaneohe.

Richard Leevey will be watch captain for this race onboard _Omega 1.

Picking your Boat and Crew

Make sure your boat is suited to the passage and the skill levels of you and the rest of the crew.

How to get a Crew Position on the Pacific Cup

by Paul Kamen April 2007

 

Dying to race in the Pacific Cup, but don't have a boat? Ma'alahi! (no problem!)  Every race boat needs a full crew, and a quick scan of the Kaneohe yacht club bar during finish week will prove that owners are in the minority.

The only problem is that this is a race that everyone wants to do, but not everyone has the boat, the timeLots of Crew or the money run their own campaign. Owners have the edge in this buyers' market, and they can afford to be extremely picky when choosing crew. This is very different from local weekend racing, where anyone who walks down the dock with seaboots and a PFD is welcome as rail meat if not foredeck fodder -- if it doesn't work out, they are off the boat in a few hours. But for Pac Cup, the owners have the luxury of racing with the people they already know, like, and trust.  

If you know someone who is likely to enter their boat in Pac Cup, you know what you have to do: Start sailing and racing with them now. Be on time for every race. Bring the best snacks you can afford. Help them sand the bottom during their haul-out. Always stay 'till the last sail is folded and the last hatch board is in place. And if you drop a winch handle overboard, replace it with a more expensive model even if the owner insists that you don't have to.  

That's just basic good crew etiquette. The real Pac Cup challenge is finding a spot on a good boat run by people you don't already know. After ten Pacific Cups on OPBs (Other Peoples' Boats), here are some basics to keep in mind:

1) Start early. Planning for this project usually begins a year in advance, so make it known that you want in and that you can contribute to preparing the boat, that you are available to race locally and can participate in the practice sails. Put your name on the Pac Cup website, place and ad in Latitute, and don't miss a Safety at Sea seminar or any other Pac Cup function.

2) Keep the dates open right up to the last minute. The first window for signing on as crew is about six months to a year or more before the start, when the teams are forming. Then as T-minus three months passes, the crew is set on nearly all boats, and very few new spots come open. But in the final weeks, things change. Crew have sudden meltdowns at work, their backs go out, they have new family commitments, and if you don't mind circling the fleet like a vulture during the final days before the race, odds of finding a spot that some unlucky sailor had to vacate become fair to excellent. (Hey, someone has to eat the carrion....)  

It doesn't happen every year, but it's not unusual for the word to go out during the Bon Voyage Party that a berth is suddenly available. In the '96 race, one boat even picked up a new crew right from the St. Francis guest dock, within an hour of their start.

But to take advantage of these last-minute openings, you have to keep your schedule clear right up through the night before the last start. This is the hard part - everyone makes other plans for the last two weeks in July. And that's exactly why those last-minute crew spots can be hard to fill, and why, if you are in the right place at the right time and still available, you're on. And there's a fringe benefit: you will have missed all the work parties getting the boat ready for the race! (On the other hand, if you follow these instructions, you will have already done far more than your share by assisting the race organizers.)

3) Volunteer. The people who put on the Pacific Cup do as much work as the people preparing their boats to race, and they always need more hands. A lot of the tasks involve organizational logistics: Producing the race guide, making arrangements for the meetings, seminars and parties, inspecting boats, finding sponsors, dealing with shipping and insurance companies. You almost certainly have a skill that they need, and after months of working closely with the race organizers they will be in a position to give you a personal recommendation when a late crew spot comes open on a good boat.  

Remember, crew for Pacific Cup should be selected based on the answer to this question: "Would I spend two weeks locked in a bathroom with this person?" So the personality and character reference is all-important. The people who can give these references when they make a difference are the same people who need your help putting on all the pre-race events.  

4) Join the Pacific Cup Yacht Club and help work the booth at the boat show. Not only is this a great way to get into the boat show for free, but all the owners planning to do the race will stop by. If any of them are looking for crew you'll be the first to know.

5) Acquire some specialized skills. A ham radio license is a relatively easy one, for example. A medical background (cardiology in particular) seems to be in high demand. Cooking can be a ticket for a ride on a big boat, but you'll have to be good -- or get some very good advice -- to learn the shortcuts that will let you feed a big crew and still have enough time left over to enjoy the sailing. Ability to repair sails or diesel engines or electrical systems looks good on the resume. If you have the skills to build the emergency rudder or install  the SSB you can make yourself more valuable to the team. 

6) Buy into a charter. Some boats ask for a substantial buy-in to defray most or all of the cost. But be careful: When crew are chosen based on ability to pay instead of character, skill and experience -- and when many thousands of dollars have been spent to be cold, wet, tired and scared while using up a year's worth of vacation time -- a happy ship is unlikely. Not that it isn't worth doing anyway. Maybe the trick is to never think about what the same amount of money could have bought at a luxury resort...

7) Do a return delivery to get some sea time. If you have never made a long ocean crossing, there is an opportunity to do this at very low cost. Anyone caught near Waikiki or Hawaii yacht clubs towards the end of July in any odd-numbered year will be asked to join a delivery crew bringing a Transpac boat back to California. Experienced delivery crew get paid for this, but as a beginner you can usually expect a free boat ride but no air fare. The trip might involve a lot of heavy upwind sailing and/or motoring, but it's still a crossing and still adds chapters to your sailing experience. "Diesel costs less than sails" read the big sign in Merlin's cabin one year.  

8) Bring something they need. This can be a certified raft that meets the requirements, a Single Sideband Radio, an emergency rudder or even a few spinnakers that are approximately the right size.  

9) Be available for the return delivery. This might add another three or four weeks to the time commitment, but it makes you far more desirable as crew. Having done the return trip once before is a big plus here.  

10) Don't be too particular. A ride on a "bad" boat is far better than no ride at all. And you have to start somewhere. Let me take that back: There is no such thing as a "bad" ride in the Pacific Cup.

Preparation Timeline

Year 2008 West Marine Pacific Cup

"Preparation Cheat Sheet"

Hang this where you will see it - like on your refrigerator or over the nav station!

 

If you have any questions on any of this drop us (Mary Lovely and Jim Quanci) a line by phone (+1-415-441-4461) or e-mail (mary.lovely@sbcglobal.net).  We love to talk to Pacific Cuppers and have competed in the race several times.  This is not an "official" race document that is recognized by higher powers so if you are interested in the "legal details" check out the Notice of Race for the "official" last word.

 

            October

£        Time to enter if I really want to do the race and avoid any chance of ending up on an entrant waiting list.  To enter, see the on-line application at http://www.pacificcup.org/enternow.

£        My crew and I attended Northern California West Marine PacCup preparation seminar #1 on October 21st at Berkeley YC starting at 9am.  There was a GREAT party after the seminar too!  Look for seminar details at http://www.pacificcup.org/node/403.

 

December

£        Invited people I want as crew.  Christmas time is a good time to lock down who your crew is - so they can set aside the time with their family and boss.  People I am inviting as crew are -

            _____________________                  ___________________         

            _____________________                  ___________________

            _____________________                  ___________________

            _____________________                  ___________________

            If you need crew - checkout the crew list on the PacCup web site - http://www.pacificcup.org/race_crew_list.

£        I don't own an offshore liferaft or have the required pyrotechnics (flares and the such) and to save money am considering renting them.  Contacted the rental company and put down a deposit.  One bay area company that rents liferafts and pyrotechnics is Hewett Marine (555 Selby Street, San Francisco, CA 94124 Tel: 415-826-4433).  Note liferaft rental companies have been known to rent out all their equipment as early as October.  Maybe a past entrant is selling their liferaft and pyrotechnics?  Check out the PacCup classified ads t http://www.pacificcup.org/ed_classified.

 

January

£        Called my travel agent and crew about making lodging reservations.  There are no hotels near Kaneohe Yacht Club and what lodging there is sells out early - so don't delay booking lodging or your options will be VERY limited.  Some lodging ideas to give your travel agent are B&B's in Kaneohe or Kailua (very reasonable rates), or renting a house in Kailua (where the regular folks live) or Lanikai (beautiful area but on the pricier side).  You can find more about lodging at the PacCup web site at http://www.pacificcup.org/node/46. Picking the date you may arrive, and your lodging reservation should start, can be tricky and depends on how risk averse you are.  It is wonderful to have a bed to go to when you arrive - though renting a place you don't use because you finished a bit late doesn't feel good either.  That said, the fastest boats could arrive as early as Friday July 25th, very fast boats July 26th-27th and slowest boats by July 30th - with the Awards banquet on Friday August 1st.

£        Made a decision and arrangements for how I will get the boat home.  If I want to hire a captain to bring the boat back - now is the time to book one.  You may be able to find a delivery skipper in the PacCup classified ads - http://www.pacificcup.org/ed_classified.  If that doesn’t work, send us an e-mail if you need the names of a few delivery captains - mary.lovely@sbcglobal.net.  If you have a small boat (<40 feet) and a trailer - you can readily ship your boat home on a barge.  For boat shipping details, check out detailed information that will be posted on the PacCup web site in the Fall - http://www.pacificcup.org - or contact the PCYC boat and equipment shipping committee chair Bob Nance at ROBERTNANCE@msn.com.

£        I went back to the PacCup website where I reviewed and completed all details on my boat and crew – http://www.pacificcup.org/user - in time to make it in the Race Guide. I know my crew will never let me forget it if they aren't in the Race Guide.  I have avoided feeling embarrassed every time my family and crew look at the Race Guide.

£        I have a production boat so I applied for my Northern California PHRF Certificate by February 1. It can take a few months to get your rating certificate which you need to apply for from YRA, get back and mail to PCYC - all before May.  You can learn more including downloading the PHRF application form at http://www.yra.org.  So why wait until the last minute?  If I had a one off custom boat, I would have had to get an ORR (Offshore Racing Rule aka Americap II) rating - http://www.ussailing.org/offshore/ORR/orr.asp[JQ1] .

 

February

£        My crew and I attended Northern California West Marine PacCup preparation seminar #2 and Safety at Sea seminar at Berkeley YC on September 23rd (prep seminar and party) and 24th (Safety at Sea Seminar that 30% of crew must have taken in the last 5 years).  Look for seminar details at http://www.pacificcup.org/node/405.

£        I am from the Northwest and just attended the Pacific Northwest Safety at Sea seminar.  Look for details in November[JQ2] .

£        Have figured out what to do for an emergency rudder.  Before the race, I have to sign in blood that I have beat and run in 10 knots+ breeze with my emergency rudder- not easy unless I have an honest for goodness real emergency rudder. It takes time to develop and build an effective emergency rudder.   You can find an article of emergency rudders on the PacCup web site - http://www.pacificcup.org/node/21.

 

March

£        My boat is all prepared to go to Hawaii and I just need to spend more time getting to know my crew and – if I am a serious racer - practicing sailing at night with the spinnaker up. 

£        Contacted PacCup equipment shipping chair (To Be Announced Spring 2008) to arrange to have non-racing equipment - including my dinghy, dodger and delivery sales - shipped ahead to Kaneohe Yacht Club.

 

April

£        Prepared boat for inspection including reviewing  the "International Sailing Federation Special Regulations Governing Offshore and Oceanic Racing for 2006 - 2007" in detail and going through the "Standard Inspection Card" checklist in the Appendix.  Remember the PacCup is Category 1 and the Race Notice includes a few "deviations and clarifications".  Though the paper Regulations are what counts – I found the unofficial regulations on-line at…

            Monohull Category 1 http://sailing.org/offshore/2007/OSR2007_Mo1_270607.pdf

            Multihull Category 1   http://sailing.org/offshore/2007/OSR2007_Mu1_270607.pdf

£        Scheduled boat inspection.  Note you must schedule your boat inspection no later then June 1 and be inspected by June 10 - why wait until the last minute?  Schedule[JQ3]  your boat inspection now.  For questions about the inspection or to schedule your inspection, contact the inspections chairperson XXXX.

£        Received my 2006 Northern California PHRF Certificate, signed it and mailed it to the PCYC.  Note this must be in to the PCYC by May 1.  Also if you plan any changes to your boat that will change your rating - you must notify the PCYC by May 1 including details on intended changes.  Amended PHRF Certificates must be received by the PCYC by June 1[JQ4] .

£        If I haven't already done so in March (insuring the Race Guide has the correct information on my boat and crew), mailed PCYC Part 2 of the Entry Form.  Part 2 is the piece of paper I had to sign releasing PCYC of any liability for my entry.  The official due date for Part 2 is May 1.

£        Practiced man-overboard drills with my crew.

£        Performed emergency rudder test with my crew.

 

May

£        Had my boat inspected.  I gave the inspector copies of my Certificate of Man-Overboard Drill, Life Raft Certificate, and certificate of successful emergency rudder test too.  I also showed him my SSB, VHF and bilge pumps work. Note you have to be inspected by June 10[JQ5] .

£        Mailed Part 3 of the Entry Form for each of my crew (Crew Waivers). I can continue to make crew changes and send Part 3 updates up until the Skippers and Navigators meeting on July 12th.

£        Made a few changes to my boat and just received my amended PHRF Certificate and mailed to the PCYC.  Last date to get amended rating certificates to PCYC is June 1st.

£      Ordered embroidered shirts for my crew.  We will be styling!

 

June

£        Had a few deficiencies during the boat inspection that I have fixed and just sent the inspector a "certification of correction of deficiencies".  Note you have until the Skippers and Navigators meeting on July 12th to correct any deficiencies and hand in the certificate of such.  But why wait until the last minute?

£        Sent my crew information on the July 12th Bon Voyage Party and August 1st Awards Banquet - mailed in my reservations too.

£        Received and read the Sailing Instructions and gave a copy to my Navigator.

£        My Navigator and I attended the Saturday July 12th Skippers and Navigators meeting held at Richmond YC in Pt. Richmond.  Exact times to be provided in May.  If you haven't done so already, this is the last day to submit Certification of Correction of deficiencies found during inspection, Certification of Successful Emergency Rudder Test, Certification of Man Overboard Drill and Part 3 Crew Waivers[JQ6] .

£        My family and crew attended the Saturday afternoon July 12th Bon Voyage Party held at SFYC (starting right after the Skippers and Navigators meeting).  More details on the Bon Voyage party to follow in the Spring.

£      Enough is enough, it's time to go sailing!

 

 


Preparing for the race

The myriad things you'll want to do before the start

Alternate Steering Method

If your rudder fails, and somebody's will, you need a way to steer the boat. Does not have to be a rudder, but it really does have to work.

Bill Lee on Alternate Steering Methods - No Rudder Needed?

Excerpt from Transpac Questions and Answers
Bill Lee, Wizard Yachts Ltd.

_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)

Q: My boat has a long graceful stern overhang with a small traditional transom. I
see no way to fit an emergency rudder to meet the emergency steering
requirement of section 4.15.

A: The actual requirement is “alternative methods of steering” of which an
emergency rudder is only one.

Another approach is to permanently mount an extra pin for the spinnaker pole on
the stern close to centerline with a universal toggle. In case of rudder loss, the
spinnaker pole is fitted on to the pin. 4 controls are needed, that being port,
starboard, up, and down. For port and starboard, run lines from the outboard end
of the pole through snatch blocks and to the cockpit winches. For up, swing a
spinnaker halyard around the mast and attach it to the end of the pole. For down,
attach a suitable amount of anchor chain to the end of the pole. You are not
going to keep seriously racing with this system, but if your main rudder breaks
you are probably done racing anyway. Two benefits of this system are that it is
not prone to breakage, and there is little risk of loosing the parts during
installation.

Regardless of what alternative method of steering are chosen, it is imperative
that the owner and crew have tested the system away from the dock and are fully
confident that it will in fact steer the boat.

_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)_/)

Bill Lee, the Fast is Fun Wizard. Legendary Santa Cruz boat builder whose outof-
the-ballpark successes include the record-setting Merlin as well as numerous
other boats optimized for Pacific Coast conditions. Currently matches boats to
people from his Wizard Yachts office in Santa Cruz

Emergency Rudder Design Guidelines


by Paul Kamen PACIFIC CUP 1998 - Preparation Seminar No. 1

Emergency Rudder Design and Construction

Berkeley Yacht Club February 28 1998

DESIGN REQUIREMENTS:

  • Cheap and easy to build
  • Light weight

SOLUTION:

Build blade like surfboard. Thick blade for strength and light weight. Moderately rough surface okay.

Keep gudgeons well separated to keep upper gudgeon lightly loaded.

For swim step transom, use stern pulpit to support top gudgeon.

MATERIALS AND SUPPLIERS:

Foam blank - "Lastafoam" medium density urethane foam boards available from Svendsen's in 1.5" x 4' x 8' sizes or cut fractions at $8.59 per square ft.

Epoxy: TAP Plastics 314 marine epoxy resin ($50.25/gallon) and 143 slow hardener ($33.35/half gallon). Or West System epoxy (West Marine or Svendsen's).

Glass: "Knytex" from Tap Plastics, or similar. This is a mat-cloth combination totaling 25.3 oz. per sq. yard. $12 per 36" of 50" wide material. Selvege tape lapped around leading and trailing edges. (Tech. contact at TAP: Russ Miller, manager at San Leandro, 510-357-3755.)

Rules for fiberglass/resin/foam work:

1) Always make a test patch
2) Cut glass carefully to size before mixing resin
3) Use a very good particle mask

DEPLOYMENT:

Allow full rotational degrees of freedom at lower gudgeon during deployment. Only one bolt in rudder and one bolt in transom, fitted loosely. Additional bolts added after top gudgeon is in place to establish alignment.

DESIGN METHODOLOGY:

1) ESTIMATE DESIGN SPEED
  • This determines the maximum force on the rudder blade. Suggest 10 knots for 45 ft. boat, 6 knots for 30 ft. boat.
2) DETERMINE LENGTH OF THE BLADE
  • Try to go to at least half the depth of the original rudder, and up to the middle or upper stern rail. (Measure depth from the transom bottom, not from the static waterline.)
3) CALCULATE FORCE ON THE BLADE:
  • Use the formula:

    F = A * Cl * 1/2 * RHO * V^2

    F = force (lb)
    A = area below transom (ft^2)
    Cl = Coeff. of lift (use 3.0 to allow for pumping transients)
    RHO = density of water (1.9905 slugs/ft^3)
    V = design speed (ft/sec)
    (1 knot = 1.6878 ft/sec)

    F = 8.5 * A * V^2

    F = force (lb)
    A = area below transom (ft^2)
    V = design speed (knots)

    [example: 1 ft. x 4 ft. blade, 7 knots: F = 1,666 lb.]

4) DETERMINE BENDING MOMENT AT THE LOWER GUDGEON:
  • Assume the force is centered between the lower gudgeon and the blade tip. if this distance is L, then:
    M = 1/2 * L * F

    M = bending moment (ft-lb)
    L = distance from lower gudgeon to tip (ft)
    F = maximum blade force at design speed

    [example: L = 4 ft, so M = 3,332 ft-lb)]

5) DETERMINE THE REQUIRED SECTION MODULUS:
  • Use 10,000 psi as design stress in low-tech laminate.

    Required "section modulus" = M*12/10,000 (the 12 is to change moment from ft-lb to in.-lb)

    [example: SM required = 4.0 in^3

6) DETERMINE THE REQUIRED THICKNESS OF FIBERGLASS LAMINATE:
  • SM = W * (T^3 - t^3) / (6 * T)
    (section inertia divided by half of max thickness)

    SM = section modulus (in.^3)
    W = width of blade (in.)
    T = overall thickness of blade (in.)
    t = thickness of core material (in.)

    [example: blade is 12" wide (but use 10" to account for shaping), core is 1.5" thick: By trial and error, use T = 2.02". SM = 4.02 in^3. So required thickness of fiberglass = 1/2 (2.02 - 1.50) = 0.26 in.]

7) CALCULATE LOAD ON UPPER GUDGEON:
  • Upper gudgeon force: FU = M/D

    FU = force on upper gudgeon (lb)
    M = Bending moment at lower gudgeon (ft-lb)
    D = distance between gudgeons (ft)

    [example: For D = 6.0, FU = 3,332/6 = 555 lb]

8) CALCULATE LOAD ON LOWER GUDGEON:
  • Lower gudgeon force: FL = FU + F

    F = force on blade (lb)
    FU = force on upper gudgeon (lb)

    [example: FL = 555 + 1666 = 2221 lb.]

9) SIZE PINTLES:

For pins in double shear (as in turnbuckle clevis pins) use safety factor of 5 and look in rigging catalog for appropriate turnbuckle size. Or use allowable shear stress of 6,000 psi for same result.

A = 1/2 * FP/sigma (for double shear)

sigma = allowable shear stress (use 6,000 psi for 316 stainless)
FP = force on pintle (upper or lower, lb)
A = required area of pintle pin (in.^2)

Solve for required pin diameter = sqrt(4 * A / PI)

[example: A = 1/2 * 2,221/6,000 = 0.1851 in.^2; pin diameter = 0.486 in., use 1/2 in. diameter pin for bottom pintle. For top, 1/4 in. diameter is sufficient, but use 3/8 in. for easier alignment.]

Simple, Cheap Backup Rudder

Boat Prep

Boat Preparation. That's 50% of the race right there.

Running Rigging for Offshore Sailing

By Bruce Schwab

As you prepare for the West Marine Pacific Cup, you’ll hear this over and over: “This (fill in the blank) is really, really important, don’t skimp on the bucks on this one or you’ll be screwed.” I wish I could say it is a different situation with the ropes on your boat, but alas, it is not. On a long ocean race, problems with halyards and running rigging are among the most common of failures. Here are some suggestions:

#1: PULL THE RIG. You are nuts if you don’t, unless you’ve done it recently or want to spend a lot of time pulling yourself up and down.

#2: SWITCH TO ALL LINE HALYARDS. Wire is becoming a thing of the past. Spectra, Technora, or Vectran fiber all have about the same stretch as wire and are lighter and more flex resistant. Wire is still more economical than high tech line but I would only use it on the main and jib halyards if you need to pinch $. For a non-surfing boat plain dacron line may be ok for the spinnaker halyards but not for much else. The high tech fiber lines give the very best strength to weight ratio when the “single braid” (12-strand) style is used with dacron sleeving added where you need to hang onto it. These assemblies look pretty much like a wire/rope halyard except the wire is single braid line. The only drawback with these as halyards is that they are so light that if you let go of the end of the halyard it blows far away from the boat.

SPINNAKER GEAR: Probably the most common problems are with spinnaker halyards and afterguys. These lines take tremendous flex and wear in a downwind race. What often works for a whole season on the Bay gets wasted surprisingly fast in heavy ocean reaching and running.

MASTHEAD: The 2 most common masthead setups for spin halyards are externally hung blocks off of U-bolts, or a “Tri-sec” type where the halyards exit straight off the sheaves over chafe bars or rollers.

If you have externally hung blocks, make sure the bracket that extends them out from the masthead goes far enough to allow the blocks to swing well clear of the headstay or anything else. Also check the wear at the interface of the U-bolt and the block shackle. These often tend to saw through each other. It is becoming very popular to use spectra webbing or lashing here instead of shackles. Many wraps of spectra can be incredibly strong, light, and can flex forever. Make sure that there are no sharp metal edges touching the line.

For a tri-sec style masthead, if you had wire halyards get rid of them (more on this later). These mastheads are fine as long as the chafe bars or rollers have enough smooth surface area for the rope to bend around and spread the load out. Install new rollers if needed.

Make sure you have 2 spin halyards. It is customary to run at least one spin halyard external for these downwind races. The extra windage won’t hurt off the wind. I prefer not to run more than one external to avoid having too much line flopping around.

AFTERGUYS: The afterguys take a lot of wear at the pole tip so one thing to check is the pole ends. For boats over 35’ or so I highly recommend an offshore style pole end with a lot of bearing area for the rope. For the guy itself it is hard to beat single braid spectra for its wear and flex life. Use a heavy “donut” to keep the shackle from messing the pole end or getting stuck. On larger boats you may need an aluminum donut that won’t split under high load. Svendsens makes a high load aluminum donut that I designed for boats over 50’.

SHACKLES
: For both the spin sheet and the guys use large bail shackles. These bear on the donuts better and allow enough room to hook the guy into the sheet shackle bail. Use “internal release” style shackles that can be spiked open under load and also have less of a tendency to “flog off”.

Consult with a rigger on how to properly prepare the spinnaker lines for chafe. There are now very effective urethane coatings that really help. There is also good ol beeswax and leather, which are sometimes hard to beat.

If you have a jib furler, remember to keep the spin halyards out of the way. Flip them behind the shrouds when not in use. One good “halyard wrap” and a halyard can be messed up good.

JIBSHEETS: Go for a line with a high tech core. Dacron is too stretchy for jibsheets unless you want to constantly adjust them for every puff and wave. For Bay racing jibsheet shackles are nice for tacking, but for ocean sailing knots are fine.

Quick overview of line fiber types

SPECTRA: Best flex life. Very slippery so also great for chafe. Very low stretch under oscillating loads. Problem: Under steady high loads, spectra “creeps” or gets slowly longer. Usually not the greatest for main and jib halyards.

TECHNORA: Very strong and low stretch, with little or no creep. Does not have the flex life of spectra and should be protected from the sun. Great for main and jib halyards.

VECTRAN: Also very strong and low stretch, with little or no creep. A little better flex life than technora but not near that of spectra. Great for main, jib and universal (combo jib & spin) halyards. Rather expensive.

There is a lot more to look for, but I’ll have to write a book later. Whatever you do, at least be sure to have a reputable pro check out what you are doing well before you leave!

Good Luck!

Bruce Schwab won the Singlehanded Transpac in 1996 aboard “Rumbleseat”, his highly- modified 1930 “30 Square Meter”. In 1998 he and fellow rigger Jim Plumley took first in Doublehanded Division 2 aboard the 31’ prototype sportboat “Azzura” with an elapsed time of 10 days flat. Bruce has won his division in the Doublehanded Farallones 7 or 8 times but can’t remember. In 1999 he and crew member Joakim Jonsson were awarded the Arthur B. Hansen Rescue Medal by US Sailing for the rescue of fellow racer Gary Helms in the 1999 Doublehanded Farallones Race. Mr. Helms had capsized near the Farallones Island in heavy conditions. http://www.rigworld.com

Energy Management

The production of adequate electric power to perform your lighting and communications requirements, as well as any cooling, inside lighting, navigation and other modern conveniences you may require is important to a safe and comfortable passage.

Many skippers take their boats "off the grid" for a month or so before the race to reveal any weaknesses in their charging and battery systems.

A worksheet is provided which may be of assistance to you and will meet the requirements of the NOR. 

Sails

The race is still for sailboats only.

Sail Inventory Suggestions for San Francisco to Hawai’i Passage

by Synthia Petroka

What is your budget & expectations?

Minimum: Mainsail, #3, #1, .75 oz AP spinnaker

Budget: Minimum plus blast reacher (135%) or butterfly, and 1.5 oz shy kite

No limit: Budget plus jib top (155%), more kites than food!

Sport Boats: Asymmetric spinnakers

4 Legs of the race

Start to Pt. Bonita: Beat

Normal: start with #1, change to #3 outside gate

Light air: Light #1

Heavy air: #3

Close Reach: Can’t carry yet

Normal: Blast Reacher

Light air: Jib Top, Drifter, Code Alpha, VMG spinnaker

Heavy air: Blast Reacher

Running:

Normal: Reacher or shy kite, asymmetric, what you have when you can

Light air: Drifter

Heavy air: shy kite

Trade Winds to Finish:

Normal: full sized spinnaker during day-runner. At night, heavy air

kite, butterfly jib, polled out blast reacher

Light air: .5 oz, AP for higher AWA

Heavy air: shy kite

Storm Sails: storm trys’l, storm jib, Gail sail (ATN)

Spinnaker Socks: ATN

Spinnaker Nets: fills fore triangle with something to keep spinnaker from wrapping around

forestay.

Outgrabbers: floating block suspended from boom, attaches to spinnaker sheet between clew and

boat, pulls clew outboard to stabilize spinnaker.


 

Sail Repair Suggestions, by Synthia Petroka

Sail repair kit

General items

Scissors – strong enough to cut boltrope Sailmakers palm – don’t scrimp here

Sailmakers needles Waxed hand sewing thread

Seam ripper Insignia cloth repair tape

Webbing Leather

Spare battens Denatured Alcohol

Ice pick or awl

Luff attachments

Slugs, slides, shackles, round rings

 

 

Take your sails to a loft to be checked


Sail Lofts:

UK Sailmakers Alameda 510-523-3966 www.uksailmakers.com

Spinnaker Shop Palo Alto 650-858-1544 www.spinnakershop.com

Santa Cruz Sails Santa Cruz 831-454-0868

*used Sail Warehouse, The 831-646-5346 www.thesailwarehouse.com

*used Sail Exchange 949-631-0193 www.sailexchange.com

Rooster Sails Alameda 510-523-1977 www.roostersails.com

Quantum Sails Richmond 510-234-4334 www.quantumsails.com

*used Pineapple Sails Oakland 510-522-2200 www.pineapplesails.com

North Sails Alameda 510-522-5373 www.northsails.com

Neil Pryde Sails Sausalito 415-827-1177 www.neilprydesails.com

Lee Sails Alameda 510-523-9011

Larsen Sails Santa Cruz 831-476-3009 www.neilprydesails.com

Hood Sailmakers Sausalito 415-332-4104 www.hoodsailmakers.com

Hogin Sails Alameda 510-523-4388 www.hoginsails.com

Haynes Sails San Rafael 415-459-2666

Halsey Lidgard San Mateo 650-347-2540 www.halseylidgard.com

Doyle Sailmakers Alameda 510-523-9411 www.doylesails.com

Problem areas to check:

Head: Headboard, webbed rings, web loops

Luff attachments: Slugs/slides, grommets, shackles

Reefs: Pressed ring corrosion, intermediate points

Corners: Corner & sail body join

Leech: Leech line and cleats, Batten pockets

Stitching: Seams, UV covers

What to Bring and Wear

What to Bring & Wear

You are about to embark on the adventure of a lifetime – a Pacific crossing! You’ve read the books, attended seminars but one question remains – what to wear? The following information should help you in your preparation for the West Marine Pacific Cup Race to Hawaii or any extended ocean passage from cooler waters to a warm climate.

The first two or three days out of San Francisco, boats are generally on a wet beam reach. The weather is often typical of the City: windy, foggy and cool. The main goal will be to stay warm and dry – layering is the key here. Clothing should consist of full waterproof foul weather gear with a good collar, boots, warm socks, warm long underwear, warm pullover top, a warm hat and waterproof gloves. Insulating layers should be very heavy weight polypro or capilene wicking fleece. Doublehanders may want to consider dry suits. Each crewmember should have a safety harness, tether, life jacket, personal strobe, personal flares, and a whistle, all of which should be worn 100% of the time while on deck. Off watch crewmembers should remove foul weather gear before climbing in their berths, as hypothermia is a real risk here. Keep foulies and safety gear together, neat and nearby so you can get into them and on deck at a moment’s notice.

After the first few days the cool weather and steeper swells should abate and you should be getting more warm sunny days, and the heavier gear will be less necessary. Fleece sweaters with a light jacket will usually be all you need for night watches. Now the main goal will be to stay comfortable and avoid sunburns and boat butt. There are few places to get out of the sun while on deck. Direct sunlight and reflections from the water, sails, and light-colored decks all contribute to possible sunburns. Waterproof sunscreen and lip balm with a high SPF rating for all exposed skin combined with a lightweight long sleeve shirt, lightweight supplex pants, a hat with a good brim and a pair of good sunglasses with croakies will become your best friends in this UV intensive environment. Avoid sitting on wet cushions: if your bottom does get wet, change into dry clothes right away. If you don’t want to get a flaming case of boat butt, (ouch) keep it dry! When choosing warm weather clothing remember – synthetics work best. Do not take down jackets or sleeping bags. Limit your cotton clothing to perhaps long sleeve sun shirts. Both down and cotton absorb moisture and hold it, increasing your risk of hypothermia. Your best choice would be some type of synthetic fleece for anything worn next to your skin as well as additional insulation layers. Supplex is a synthetic material which sheds water and is extremely lightweight. Shorts, long pants and hats made of this material are a favorite for warm weather. You will need a medium to light weight synthetic sleeping bag for the first few nights, then you will be plenty warm with a sheet and light blanket for the balance of the trip. Don’t forget a comfortable pillow.

How to Pack

Pack your clothing in separate waterproof bags. Ziplock Freezer bags work well to keep things organized and dry. Try to squeeze out all the air before sealing the bags to save space. Bring along extra bags for your dirty clothing; it will help keep your gear bag and the boat smelling better. You will usually not be doing any laundry on the passage so plan your clothing accordingly.

Other Personal Gear to Consider

A self-illuminating wristwatch with an easy to work alarm is a must. A rigging knife should have a lanyard to attach to your gear. A personal pen type flashlight with a red lens cover is essential for night watches. A headlight for working on the foredeck at night is very useful as well. If you wear corrective lens glasses, bring an extra pair. A second pair of sunglasses is a good idea as well. If you like music, a personal player with earphones and plenty of extra batteries is nice. If you like to read, bring along a couple of good paperbacks and a journal keep a record of your passage. Don’t forget your camera with plenty of rolls of film.

You should have a bag with basic over-the-counter medical items like Ibuprofen, Benadryl, Imodium, decongestants, antacids, Neosporin cream and anything else that you might need. If you take prescription medication, get new prescriptions filled and allow for a 30-day supply.

You can get travel size personal care items to help keep the space down. Things like shampoo, toothpaste, unscented deodorant, can all be fit nicely into a small ziplock freezer bag.

All of your gear should fit into one sailing gear bag and one clothing duffel bag. The only exception should be for your sleeping bag and pillow. Space will be at a premium and no one likes a cluttered boat. The goal here is not bring along extra things that you might not need. You can ship over a bag with your Hawaii gear and it will be waiting for you when you arrive.

I hope this helps you to get a good overview of what to wear and the items you will need to bring along. Stay warm, dry, comfortable and safe.

This article was updated for this Race Guide by: Richard Leevey. It was originally written by: Leanne Burr for the 1996 Race Guide.

Medical Preparation and Emergencies

Be Safe

PREVENT Medical Emergencies

Prevent_Medical Emergencies
by John H. Wright, MD

Health and safety at sea, particularly under the stress of racing, requires planning and preparation for ultimate success. It is quite important to acquire an appropriate medical kit and know how and when to use it. It is more important to prepare so that it will not be needed; -i.e., “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Know yourself and your crew-strengths, weaknesses, and special needs. It may well be advisable for all or some of the crew to visit with their doctor to explain that they will be isolated from usual medical care for a period, to obtain medication or advice concerning any ongoing health problems, and the skipper should be fully knowledgeable of these problems. A visit to your dentist may be equally useful. Certainly crew selection must consider health deficiencies. For instance, I regularly sail with an insulin-dependent diabetic crew member and our kit has insulin. The member and the skipper know when and how to use this. It might be unusually hazardous for someone who requires close, regular medical attention to be isolated for two weeks or more, and their doctors could so advise. Some illnesses are likely to become significantly worse under the stress of fatigue, seasickness, or physical demands not normally encountered. Ischemic heart disease (angina), diabetes mellitus, seizure disorders (epilepsy), many psychological disorders, drug or alcohol dependence, peptic ulcer disease, migraine (headaches), irritable colon problems, and even rheumatoid arthritis are only a few which are recognized to be frequently worse with stress. Perhaps, in a specific instance, none of these would disqualify a known and valuable crewmember, but medical advice is needed and planning for special care or medication required. Certainly ideal low risk crew health would be important to consider in crew selection.

Frequently, little attention is given to crew physical conditioning. We hear of some conditioning by Olympic sailors or by dinghy sailors or 12-meter contenders but seldom by others. Again, serious consideration to physical conditions should be given. A strong crew person with good cardiovascular reserve and stamina is much less likely to be injured or become ill. If possible, a regular exercise program with aerobics for two or three month’s pre-race would pay dividends in safety, enjoyment and performance. An additional benefit might be some weight loss (who needs a heavy crew for a long, downwind ride).

This brings up diet (pre-race). I have seen some articles in sailing magazines recommending training diets. I am not saying these might not be useful, but I would be satisfied for my crew to be on an established, usual, nutritionally sound diet (weight reduction if overweight), with great attention to adequate fiber intake for regularity and a reduction to a minimum in alcohol or other drug use for two weeks prior to the race. Vitamin supplements should be considered before and during the race.

Prevention of seasickness also begins prior to sailing with diet and avoidance of alcohol or much caffeine, spices, or fatty or heavy foods prior to departure. The use of anti-motion sickness drugs should be considered. The most effective items are prescriptions and must be obtained from a doctor. I like Transderm Scopolamine patches, but some in my crew prefer oral medication. We have had reasonable success with Phenergan and ephedrine in individual doses. I caution that these should only be used if tried previously, as the best anti-motion sickness medications all have some undesirable side effects – often sleepiness or dizziness.

Some instances of drug interaction with other medications exist and require individual doctor’s advice. Much of the prevention of seasickness lies with good physical conditioning and proper diet. Lack of fatigue, adequate warmth, how one is positioned on the boat, visual clues, lack of head motion and each individual’s means of dealing with unaccustomed visual clues versus vestibular clues (balance, acceleration, gravity) affects one’s responses. Most of us with any ocean time are familiar with this. We also know how handicapped one may be if significant “mal de mer” occurs. Again, this factor should be addressed in crew selection; however be aware that if serious seasickness does occur, the crew member will need care and on rare occasions, could become so dehydrated from vomiting and the inability to retain oral fluids that medical/hospital care for intravenous fluids may be required.

In consideration of health, maintenance and the prevention of problems, it is not often recognized, except in aviation circles, that smoking results in significantly poor night vision as well as all the other known effects on the lungs, throat, and heart and blood vessels.

At least two crewmembers should have knowledge of at least basic First Aid. Red Cross courses are not expensive, are readily available, and are useful. If possible, a course in CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) should be obtained for two crewmembers. Of course, should you have a doctor or nurse as crew you would benefit.

If you are well prepared with knowledge, plans, good physical condition, and select crew, you may never even have to use your first aid kit. If you do, it will most likely be needed for common injuries.

One of the most common and preventable is a burn. “Sunburn” or ultraviolet injury, totally preventable, is best treated by absolute limitation of any more exposure, increased fluid intake, aspirin or Tylenol, and skin cleansing, particularly blistered. Thermal burns from hot liquids could be serious and, if a large area of skin is involved, could result in shock, later infection, or even death. The seriousness of a burn is related to both the area involved and the depth of tissue involved-i.e. first, second, or third degree. If the throat or lungs are involved, it can be a serious emergency. All except the most superficial and small area burns may disable a crewmember due to pain, shock, or infection.

Cuts (or lacerations) are also common. Most occur on the hands and face or scalp, and all may have worrisome bleeding which can be stopped best by direct pressure applied to the wound with fingers and a bandage. Usually a large bandage will maintain enough pressure if property placed. If the laceration gapes, some physicians might use adhesive “Steri-Strips” to bring the edges together. The main principles of wound care are: 1) do no more harm; 2) clean the wound, and remove foreign matter and dead tissue; 3) bring the edges together; 4) protect with a sterile dressing (wet dressing is no longer sterile or protection). Antibiotic ointment is sometimes used but is no substitute for the above principles. The best method of wound cleaning is gentle washing with an antiseptic soap such as Betadine or Hibiclens.

Fracture of the ribs, fingers, or forearm bones could occur with a fall or with a runaway winch. Fractures of the thighbone (femur) or the leg (tibia) are common on the ski slope but unusual on sailboats. Penetration of skin by bone ends or a laceration over the bone results in a “compound” injury, which is more severe because of infection danger. All fractures (except a single finger) are likely to disable a crewman for the duration. All must be treated by placing the affected part at rest (splitting) with adequate padding (swelling will occur) and any available material to keep broken bones from moving. I have used a rolled magazine or large cushion with battens or commercial splint. Fingers may be taped to other fingers or taped to a cloth (bandage) roll in the fist. Sprains (torn ligaments) and strains (muscle injuries) may also be treated with splitting. Larger bone fractures could cause a lot of blood loss into the surrounding tissue and, with pain, result in shock.

Shock is a condition characterized by falling blood pressure: symptoms include cold, moist skin; rapid, weak pulse; nausea; thirst; fear or even loss of consciousness. It may accompany many injuries especially particularly severe, extensive burns; considerable bleeding; severe infections (sepsis); prolonged vomiting or diarrhea; heat prostration; or hypothermia. Usual treatment of shock is aimed at increasing intravascular volume so that more blood will be returned to the heart, allowing an increased stroke volume and output, thereby increasing blood pressure and circulation; hence, the administration of IV fluids is a standard treatment. On a racing yacht, this may be impractical unless trained people and adequate equipment are carried; however, blood return to the heart can be improved by first aid means. Have the victim lie down with legs elevated; keep him warm; splint fractures; dress burns; stop bleeding; and, when he is able, give him liquids containing calories and salt such as broth, and ease pain with medicine. The presence of shock usually means a serious illness or injury that will require medical advice and likely more care than available aboard.

A head injury may result from a fall or a blow by an object such as the spars or winch handle and unconsciousness is quite serious if it occurs more than briefly. Scalp lacerations may be very bloody and can lead to shock. Serious head injuries with brain tearing or bleeding inside the skull are often fatal, even with prompt, expert care; however, basic first aid should be begun in all cases. Treatment is similar to that of shock but the victim is best placed on one side or prone since vomiting is common.

Breathing may be compromised by relaxation of the jaw and tongue, and airway maintenance is vital. Unconsciousness may be accompanied by seizure or unconsciousness may follow a seizure for some minutes. Medical help is necessary for any episode of unconsciousness beyond a very few minutes.
A multitude of minor, but in the circumstances important and disabling, illnesses might strike. Most require little more than symptomatic care but could disrupt the crew duty assignments. One could foresee flu, colds, sore throats, minor intestinal upsets, toothaches, urinary tract infections, minor vaginal infections in the female crew members, or (as has in the past occurred) drug or alcohol withdrawal or toxicity or psychiatric illness (psychosis). Some of the latter can be quite seriously disruptive and hard to deal with.

As a rule, significant medical illnesses such as hepatitis, pneumonia, heart attack, and stroke are unlikely if crew selection is good but if these occur would require medical help. I have often been concerned in a young group about appendicitis with its characteristic abdominal pain and vomiting but this seems to be very rare in the racing or cruising groups. Again, medical help by radio and rapid evacuation of the ill person may prove necessary. The characteristic pain and tenderness localized finally to the right lower area of the abdomen is the usual indicator for suspecting this diagnosis.

A crewmember overboard, particularly in the cold, coastal North Pacific (even if recovery is prompt) may experience hypothermia. This condition, a result of heat loss and a fall in body temperature, may be recognized by the victim’s confusion, blue lips, shivering, and muscular incoordination. Shock or heart beat (pulse) irregularities may occur and CPR training may come to use. The symptoms may be somewhat delayed at the onset. Any person overboard in cold water should be suspect. Treatment consists of warming, drying, and resting the patient. The skin should only be heated by placing the person in a sleeping bag or blankets and another person may supply heat by joining the patient in the bag (body contact). Avoid alcoholic beverages but when the patient is alert and not sick, warm liquids may be given. Seasickness is not an unusual accompanying complication.

In summary, many problems that could require treatment or even patient evacuation, can be prevented by crew selection, physical (doctor’s) evaluation, and conditioning. Safe practices and proper equipment can prevent many injuries. Planning and preparation can boost confidence and allow appropriate treatment of many conditions. A proper kit and the training to use it are indicated. A first aid course (Red Cross) and CPR training for two members is advised.

Hypothermia

Cold Water Immersion/Hypothermia - Survival and Rescue
Kent Benedict, MD, FACEP

"For this relief much thanks; 'tis bitter cold,
and I am sick at heart." - William Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act 1

The challenge of sailing small vessels is simply this: to get us from one point to another over the
water without adding to the discomfort or potential disaster by actually putting us into the water.
Especially cold water. This is not to say that swimming, kayaking, diving, surfing and all the other fun
things one can do in the water should be avoided, but for our simple goal of getting our boat from here
to there, staying warm and dry are our paramount concerns.(*see sidebar on being swept overboard)
Which brings us to the point of this article.
Immersion hypothermia is the medical term for one of the bad consequences of falling into cold
water. Obviously, drowning or near-drowning is the other consequence. The definition of cold water is
variable but the significant risk of immersion hypothermia is in water 77 degrees Fahrenheit or colder.
Just looking at the temperatures of the San Francisco Bay shows us that in our area the risk is universal
all year long.
San Francisco Bay Average Water Temperature(Degrees Fahrenheit)
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
52 52 54 54 54 54 56 56 54 54 52 52
It is estimated that half of all so-called 'drowning' victims actually die from the fatal effects of
cold water. Cold water robs the body of heat 25-30 times faster than air. When you lose enough body
heat to make your temperature subnormal, you become hypothermic.(*see sidebar on signs and
symptoms of hypothermia)
So what actually happens when you fall overboard into 50 degree water? When the water first
hits you, it's cold but not paralyzing. If you're wearing a PFD, and you survive the first few minutes in
the water, there's a good chance of surviving up to four hours. But it can be extremely variable,
depending on sea state, your physique, your conditioning, your clothing, and ultimately your behavior in
the water. But the first minutes in the water are critical. The moment you go in there is a gasp reflex,
causing an involuntary mouth opening and deep inhalation. If you are actually under water when that
gasp occurs one of two things will happen: in 10% of us the larynx goes into spasm and nothing can
enter the lungs, and suffocation may occur. In the rest of us there is an almost immediate flooding of the
lungs and drowning begins. Loss of consciousness rapidly follows and soon death. As Sebastion Jungar
2
wrote in his book The Perfect Storm, The panic of a drowning person is mixed with an odd incredulity
that this is really happening. Having never done it before, the body - and the mind - do not know how to
die gracefully. The process is filled with desperation and awkwardness. "So this is drowning," a
drowning person might think. "So this is how my life finally ends." If the gasp reflex were not bad
enough, there is yet another reflex which for some can be even worse — cold water causes a precipitous
rise in blood pressure and heart rate. In some, this creates such a strain on the heart that it literally stops
pumping blood. Unconsciousness and death occur almost instantly. For those who have had the good
fortune of surviving those first minutes without immediately drowning or having a cardiac arrest, they
now face the challenge of staying alive long enough for rescue. But the cold water is making it more and
more difficult. Blood is rapidly shunted away from the surface of the body in order to protect vital
organs such as the kidneys, liver, brain, and heart. Uncontrollable shivering begins. Muscle coordination
and strength wane. Studies have shown that after the first five minutes in 50 degree F water, muscle
strength decreases by 1.8% per minute.(*see sidebar on muscle fatigue). Disorientation and confusion
begin. It becomes harder and harder to think straight. The hands are now numb and unable to grip. The
legs are so weak that any attempt to swim or even tread water is useless. And even if the sea is
moderately calm and the PFD is maintaining the head above water, the constant splashing of small
waves makes it impossible to keep water out of the nose and mouth. If rescue does not happen soon,
death is inevitable.(*see sidebar on the Titanic)
Okay, now that I've painted such a fatalistic picture, let me try to get you out of this mess.
Fortunately, the whole issue of cold water immersion has been extensively studied and from those
studies we can give reasonably good advice based on solid evidence. But first of all, it is important to
understand that there is at least one factor which you have little control over — your physique. Children
are especially prone to hypothermia because of their high skin surface to body mass ratio. And for the
same reason, tall skinny people are far more susceptible to hypothermia than short, fat, or highly
muscular types. As an example, in July 1993 in the Straight of Georgia, Canada, a man fell off a ferry
into 61 degree F water. He had no PFD. The predicted survival time in that water is around five hours.
But he drifted overnight, over 8 hours, and was rescued in the morning. He was found to be only
moderately hypothermic. And although the media heralded this event as a 'miracle', it could better be
described as not that unusual - the man was a well muscled 6'4", 220-pounder. His bulk of muscle and
fat made him a slow cooler, and he survived.
But what factors can you control if you do happen to fall into cold water? Above all, don't panic!
Panicking exhausts your reserve energy and strength. There is a physiologic reflex to hyperventilate in
cold water. Try to consciously slow your breathing. Hyperventilation can quickly produce muscle
cramping and spasms.
And then try to remember the following:
• Keep wearing all your clothing. Do not remove anything unless possibly your seaboots if they
3
are weighing you down and pulling you under.
• Button, buckle, zip and tighten collars, cuffs, shoes and hoods. Do this quickly, before your
hands are numb and muscle strength is gone. Cover your head if possible. A layer of water trapped
inside your clothing will be slightly warmed by your body and will help insulate you from the colder
water, thereby slowing body heat loss.
• If you were not wearing a PFD when entering the water, there is a chance an alert crew has
tossed one overboard. Find it and put it on immediately.
• Look for a nearby rescue line or float and swim to it if at all possible.
• At this point devote all your efforts to getting out of the water and continue to act quickly
before you lose full use of
your hands and limbs. Climb onto anything floating. The object is to get as much of yourself out of the
water as possible. Even though you are now exposed to wind and spray, you will not lose heat as rapidly
as you would in the water. "Wind-chill" is not anywhere near as lethal as staying in the water.
• Do not attempt any further swimming unless it is absolutely necessary to reach a nearby boat or
another person. Unnecessary swimming "pumps" out warmed water between your body and your
clothing causing new cold water to take its place. Excessive movement of your arms and legs can reduce
your survival time by as much as 50%.(*see sidebar on Dancing Ledge)
• If there is no floating object nearby to hold onto, then assume the Heat Escape Lessening
Position (H.E.L.P) by holding knees to chest. Wrap arms around legs and clasp hands together.
• If there are others in the water, huddling together can extend survival time up to 50%.
• Continue remaining as still as possible. It may be painful but remember that intense shivering
and severe pain are natural body
reflexes in cold water which will not kill you. Heat loss will.
For those of you who are still on-board and are now going to be assisting in the rescue, I offer
the following advice:
• The first principle of rescue is to get the victim out of the water as soon as possible.
Immediately throw into the water anything that the person might be able to wear or hang onto. Make
sure that at least one crew watches the victim at all times. Get the boat back to the person using
whatever technique you have practiced in your man-overboard drills.
• After the first 5-10 minutes do not expect the victim to able to get out of the water unassisted.
After 15 minutes, assume the victim is already significantly hypothermic and will be helpless to assist in
his own rescue.
• Remove the victim from the water gently and in a horizontal position. Even mildly
hypothermic victims, if forced into a vertical or standing position, can suddenly drop their blood
pressure and lapse into unconsciousness.(*see sidebar on post-rescue dangers)
• Gentle handling of the victim is extremely important since excessive jostling can produce lethal
4
heart arrhythmias in the moderately hypothermic person.
• If the victim is unconscious, not breathing, and no pulse, then CPR is indicated. But, before you
start CPR you must make absolutely sure that there is neither pulse nor breath. In severely hypothermic
victims, respirations and pulse may be slow, shallow, and difficult to detect. Therefore, take at least a
minute in assessment before commencing with CPR.
• You may have to continue CPR for a long time. A few years ago, a severely hypothermic 25
year old woman was rescued in the Sierras. During transport she suffered a cardiopulmonary arrest but
was successfully resuscitated after 3 hours of CPR.
After recovery from the water and initial management of any life-threatening emergencies the
objective is the prevention of further heat loss.
• Minimize physical activity. The physiologic process known as "afterdrop" produces further
cooling of the body long after removal from the water. This can be aggravated by physical activity
where the cool body surface blood is suddenly mixed with the warmer core blood. Experiments on
moderately hypothermic volunteers have demonstrated a threefold greater afterdrop during treadmill
walking than when lying still.
• Remove wet clothing, gently dry the skin, and then wrap the victim in a dry insulated blanket,
rescue bag, or sleeping bag. If further heating of the victim is warranted, then the safest method is
"buddy warming" where a crew member joins the victim in the blanket or sleeping bag. The buddy
should concentrate on lateral chest to lateral chest contact. Lower extremity contact is unnecessary so
pants don't have to be removed.
• Avoid using heating pads or hot water bottles because of the high risk of further skin damage.
Hypothermic skin is injured skin and there have been cases of third degree burns resulting from their
use. If it is felt the devices must be used it is mandatory that they not be in direct contact with skin. Use
clothing or blankets as a barrier.
• Do not give hot food or liquids unless the victim is fully alert and awake. There is a strong
vomiting reflex in hypothermia. The drinks and food may help the morale of the victim but are only
minimally effective in raising the temperature.
• No alcoholic drinks, cigarettes, or coffee in any hypothermia situation.
Ultimately, any person who has suffered anything more than a very minimal cold water
immersion should be brought to medical attention as soon as possible. There are many case histories of
death occurring hours after the incident.
Signs and symptoms of hypothermia
• Minimal/moderate hypothermia: Body temperature has dropped below 96-97º F, but is
still above 90º F. The victim feels cold, is quiet and reluctant to communicate, shivering is prominent.
• Moderate/severe hypothermia: Body temperature now is between 90º F and 85-86º F.
5
Victim is semiconscious, movement is slow and uncoordinated, muscle rigidity has set in and shivering
stops.
• Severe hypothermia: Body temperature is below 86º F and the victim is unconscious,
pupils are dilated, there is depressed breathing, and a high likelihood heart arrhythmias. The victim often
appears dead.
• The 3 best rapid clinical signs to determine degree of hypothermia are 1) Skin
temperature of the back: if warm, then hypothermia is usually not present. 2) Shivering: Starts when
body temperature drops below 95º F, stops somewhere around 90º F. 3) Mental status markedly
deteriorates below 90º F.
On being swept overboard
"The most dangerous position is on the foredeck, shifting jibs or setting or lowering spinnakers (but)
where most accidents take place is in the comparatively safe position of the cockpit, when safety belts
are temporarily detached when changing helmsmen, or when a man emerges from below to empty a
gash bucket, to be sick or to come on watch." - K. Adlard Coles Heavy Weather Sailing
I would also add to Coles' thoughts — taking a piss over the side of the boat can be a high risk
proposition. Often when the dead body is recovered, the pants are found with the fly open.
The story of Dancing Ledge
On Sunday, the 29th of July 1956, in a Force 11 storm(winds 56-63 knots), the 10 ton cruising yacht,
Dancing Ledge, foundered in the English Channel only a mile from land taking three of her crew to their
deaths. The sole survivor of the tragic event, Mrs. O'Sullivan, wrote — "We were pooped almost
immediately. Water broke through the starboard cabin top combing, which burst inwards. Two or more
seas heaping together spilled a few more tons of water on top of us, and Dancing Ledge went down very
quickly. I was in the cabin, which seemed to fill from every direction...We hit the bottom or something
hard...In the cabin full of water, and dark, I got free by wriggling my feet out of my shoes and groped
out...The life jacket took charge once I got into the cockpit, and I went up fast for a long, long way."
Mrs. O'Sullivan, Colonel H. Barry O'Sullivan(her husband), and one other crew(the fourth crew had
apparently already died) soon found the vessel's upside-down dingy floating nearby. The trio clung to
the dingy over four hours before a rescue vessel appeared. According to Mrs. O'Sullivan, "Barry insisted
we should 'bicycle' continuously with our legs in order to keep warm and to avoid stomach cramp..." A
British navy frigate, H.M.S. Keppel, approached at about this time. Colonel O'Sullivan took off his
orange jacket to wave it above the spray to attract attention. With extreme difficulty the frigate was
maneuvered alongside and a rope was thrown to Mrs. O'Sullivan. She let go of the dingy with one hand
to grip the rope. Her hand was so cold and rigid that she could not close it around the rope. She let go of
6
the dingy with the other hand to attempt to get a stronger grip, but it was impossible to hold the rope and
it ran through her hands as a wave, deflected by the bulk of the frigate, swept her along the length of the
ship and she drifted away into the clear. Now supported only by her life-jacket, she became
unconscious. Within a few minutes the ship sent a rescue swimmer, secured by a lifeline, into the water
where he was able to bring the comatose woman back to the ship and carry her up the scrambling nets.
Once she was aboard, the search for the others continued, but the ship could find no trace of them or the
dingy.
The Titanic
At approximately 11:40 PM on April 14, 1912, the Titanic struck the iceberg and the ship sank in calm
seas. The water temperature was near 32 degrees F. Of the 2201 people on-board, only 712 were
rescued. A rescue vessel had arrived with two hours of the sinking, yet 1489 people died in the water.
Nearly all were wearing 'life preservers'. Although the official cause of death was listed as 'drowning',
the most probable cause was immersion hypothermia.
On the dangers of the post-rescue period
"I was the last man to be picked up. Everyone was conscious when taken out of the water but many of
the men lost consciousness when taken onto the warmth of the trawlers. Nine of the men died on board
soon after being picked up. We were all given a small mouthful of spirits... and this made us sleep, and
these unfortunate men went to sleep and did not wake up again" — Captain H.J.M. Downie of the SS
Empire Howard which sank in 29 degree F water in the Arctic Ocean
On muscle fatigue
"I was pulled out of the water into the boat.... I had by this time been in the water about 2 1/2 hours, the
temperature of which was 47 degrees F, and my body was completely numb when rescued" — Captain
F.D. Straus of the SS Manchester Merchant in the North Atlantic
Dr. Benedict is a board-certified emergency physician and USCG Licensed Master. From 1980 to 2002
he was the Chief Medical Officer for the California Maritime Academy's training ship, USTS GOLDEN
BEAR. He holds the appointment of Clinical Associate Professor of Medicine at Stanford. He has taught
Emergency-Medicine-at-Sea courses for years, written articles for Latitude 38 and authored the medical
chapters in the standard US Maritime texts the American Merchant Seaman’s Manual and the Merchant
Marine Officers’ Handbook. He cruised extensively on his own vessel, the San Juan. Currently he is the
Medical Director of Emergency Medical Services in Santa Cruz and San Benito Counties. In his spare
time he is a Caribbean charter captain.
For further information or consultations call (831) 662-0668 or e-mail skylax@cruzio.com

Insurance

Struggling at obtaining insurance?

Following are observations, ideas and things to consider when pursuing insurance for the Pacific Cup. Please take this information with an open mind as we are not experts in boat insurance and risk analysis. Obtaining insurance for your boat, that also includes coverage for a race to Hawaii, requires hard decisions, money, uncertainty and knowing your own risk adversity (sounds like playing the stock market doesn't it?). The author, and Pacific Cup Yacht Club, takes no responsibility for the following as it is based on anecdotal informal and not extensive research. Now that our rear is covered, here are some observations you may find useful.

You need your annual insurance policy to be with the same company that will provide you coverage for the race. Most insurance carriers believe insuring boats crossing oceans is significantly riskier then insuring a boat that sails locally and spends much of its time sitting in a slip. Your insurance broker may need to spend significant time getting you the extra insurance you'll want for the race. Your insurance broker will be spending time talking to you about your options (coverage, exclusions and costs) as well as working with the insurance carriers to find you the coverage you want. Brokers are not interested in spending several hours with someone just to get their insurance business for the race - or even just one year. They want to know they will obtain several years of insurance premiums from you as it will probably be after the second year before they start making money from your business. So, a "catch 22" for this years race, you need to shop for your annual boat insurance a year or two before the race - with an offshore boat knowledgeable broker who can later insure you for the race. You will need to sell the agent that you are a good potential repeat customer.

Don't expect "quality predictable" insurance coverage from companies that do not specialize in insuring boats that go offshore. Yes you may be able to get boat insurance from the same company you get home and car insurance from, or from companies that mostly insure small powerboats, and it will probably be low cost, even 25% to 50% less, but you will probably be unable to get coverage for the race. If they do say they will cover the race, you must GET IT IN WRITING. If you go offshore insured through a generic high volume boat policy, you are gambling. They may be perfectly good and high quality in-shore insurers, but are not well suited for offshore. Some people are comfortable making this risk/cost tradeoff - and some are not.

Brokers may vary, but the quality offshore yacht carriers do not. A few "grade A" carriers include insurance companies like Zurich, Markel, Travelers, and brokers like Marsh and Lloyds (and I am sure there are more). These offshore carriers ask hard detailed questions like your sailing experience, boat ownership history and claim history. They want to know exactly where you will be sailing and when. They will want resumes of the sailing experience of each crew member. They will also probably want a survey (out of the water !) done within the past year. If the insurer is not asking these questions, they may be a perfectly good in-shore insurer, but they probably don't understand offshore boating which can result in problems should you have a claim.

What about those "exclusions" like rig and sail coverage? A knowledgeable offshore broker, with enough financial incentive (i.e. your money), can provide you many options including significant coverage that less offshore boat knowledgeable insurers may have turned you down for. But, it will cost you. So find a quality broker and start talking (of course you really need to have already be working with the broker for a year or two before having this race specific conversation… which means you will need to do a great job selling them on your potential to be a good long term customer). That said it is unlikely you will get coverage of the sails and rig, certainly not spinnakers, while racing.

How much is it going to cost me? For a typical 40 foot racer/cruiser, you may have to pay an offshore yacht specific broker 25%-50% more than the volume boat insurers offer. Then, for the race, you may have to pay an additional $250 for the rider to cover the three or so months you may be offshore racing and another $250 if you sail home. And if you want reduced exclusions, it'll cost more yet. Be sure to ask them how/if exclusions vary between the race over and the delivery trip home. You may be able to cover sails and rig for the delivery home, but not the race. Remember that sailing to Hawaii, and returning home, is more miles then most boats go in 5+ years and will probably include quite a few miles in the frequently adverse offshore weather conditions of the west coast of the US. A lot more risk then a normal year when your boat spends most of its time at the dock. Don't be surprised to hear you'll need to buy a year’s insurance coverage in order to get the rider that covers the race.

Why can I not get insurance? If you are talking to a quality insurance broker and are willing to pay for quality coverage, there are some situations where you still may have difficulty getting insurance coverage. Examples of difficult to insure people and boats are those going single-handed or double-handed in a small or high performance boat, those with a history of claims, and those with little offshore sailing experience (I think you get the picture). In these cases you'll need to do a bit more work finding the right insurer, and depending on your budget, you may have to settle for either liability only or no insurance.

Who are quality insurance brokers? Making recommendations is tricky stuff as we all have different expectations of what is good and what is not. In addition, there is a lot of room for honest misunderstanding when/if you have a claim so you can find positive and negative feedback on virtually all insurance brokers and carriers. That said, we have heard from several entrants that have sailed to Hawaii several times about insurance brokers they are happy with (at least for now). These include the following companies.

Note "Limitations" are based on our limited understanding, may not be very accurate, and are surely incomplete but we are providing anyway as it may help save you from making a few unnecessary telephone calls.

Bay Risk Insurance Brokers

(800) 647-2025 ask for Marvin

email marvin@bayrisk.com)
Office in Alameda, California

Blue Water Insurance http://bluewaterins.com
(888) 866-7277
Offices in San Diego and Florida
Limitations? Over 37 feet, no single handers, no carbon fiber masts

Jack Martin Insurance http://www.jackmartin.com
(800) 421-8818 (Morgan Wells or Damon)
morgan@jackmartin.com
Limitations? No single or double handers

Mariners General Insurance

Craig Chamberlain
204 Riverside Avenue
Newport Beach, CA 92663
cchamberlain@marinersinsurance.com
Phone (949) 642-5174 / Fax (949) 642-0252
Limitations? No single handers

Ocean Marine Underwriters

Pat Kudlich, President

735 Bishop St, Ste 327

Honolulu, HI 96813

omia@hawaii.rr.com

Phone 808 532-1000 / Fax 808 532-1009

Polaris Risk Management Pat Lowther
1800 Sutter St, Suite 777
Concord, CA
plowther@polaris-ins.com
Phone (925) 677-7400 ext. 2012
Fax (925) 677-7401

Limitations? No boats over 25 years old. Ocean racers considered on a case by case basis

To be clear, the Pacific Cup Yacht Club and sponsors of the Pacific Cup make no endorsements or recommendations for these companies.

Bob Gray has been doing a little research on the insurance issue and has located two brokers who believe they generally can place insurance for Pacific Cup racers. They are:

1) Gowrie Barden & Brett Ins brokers - Connecticut; 860 399-5945;
Contact is Rod Clingman
Marine Department
Gowrie Barden & Brett Insurance ;
(860) 399-3677 Direct; (860) 399-3620 Fax
800 262 8911ext 177

2) Morgan Wells - Jack Martin & Associates
326 First St. #27
Annapolis, MD, 21403 USA
410-626-1000 ext. 5723; FAX: 410-626-9966
800-421-8818 ext. 5723

Racers applying for insurance should each prepare a packet for the broker to take to the underwriters, including a crew list (with resumes), vessel descriptions including meeting the Special Regulations (the underwriters are familiar with the term ORC and it wouldn’t hurt to identify boat as meeting ORC regulations) and show the Notice of Race and Inspector Checklist showing basic criteria they need to meet to sail the race.

Pacific Cup Insurance from Old United

 Pacific Cup Yacht Race Insurance

Thanks to the efforts of PCYC's special operative at Polaris Insurance, Old United Casualty Company and Polaris Risk Management have joined together to offer an endorsement for Pacific Cup race insurance For more information and to request a quote, please contact:

 Pat Lowther

 plowther@polaris-ins.com

925-677-7400 x2012

 To learn more about the Old United policy go to:
The Millennium Mariner Gold Product Description Page:
http://www.oldunited.com/productsMillennium.aspx

 

Go to the bottom of the page and click on the Quote Form link; and then scroll down to
Optional Coverages, where you will see “[   ] Pacific Cup Race Endorsement” . 

Be sure and check this box!

To go directly to the quote page:
 

The Millennium Mariner Gold Quote Submission Form Page;
http://www.oldunited.com/productsMillQuote.aspx
 

Scroll down to “Optional Coverages, where you will see “ [   ] Pacific Cup Race Endorsement” .  Be sure and check this box!

Boathandling

How to, well, SAIL!

Max Ebb on Squalls

Squall Strategy

Re-printed with permission from Latitude 38, July 1994.
Copyright Max Ebb Publications and Latitude 38, 1994

 



"What's the event tonight?" I asked the bartender. "I had to
drive all the way back to the second overflow parking lot to find
a space!"
But the bar was almost empty. Just a few people I didn't
recognize buying drinks, and a member serving.
"It's the weather briefing for the race to Hawaii. Standing
room only in the dining room."
"Ah, that explains it. Big entry list this year. Who's
speaking?"
The speaker was a well-known name in Transpac navigation,
all the more reason for the full house. So I ordered a gin and
tonic for myself and wandered towards the dining room, to see if
I could squeeze in for the rest of the presentation.

"If you're on a sled," advised the speaker, "you can
actually sail as fast as the squall is moving. VMG downwind will
be about half the windspeed, with no upper limit."
He was referring to a table of numbers projected on the
screen, showing the tacking angle, apparent wind angle, boat
speed, and VMG for a large ultralight.
"The squall typically moves at 15 knots, but the wind in the
squall is around 30. That's enough to get you down the wind fast
enough to stay in the area of strongest wind, so you can actually
jibe back and forth across the face of the squall many times.
Remember, the object is to stay *in* the squall"
This generated a chuckle from the audience. Having seen the
entry list, I knew that most of them were cruisers before racers.
The next chart flashed up on the screen, the numbers for a much
older and heavier 40-footer.
"But in a slower or smaller boat, one pass is usually all
you'll get. How you exit the squall is critical."
This was interesting. I walked along the back perimeter of
the darkened room, navigating between the packed bodies and re-
arranged tables and chairs. No seats, but it seemed like it might
be worth standing and listening for a while.
"On a slow boat - and that means anything but a sled - you